Roti King’s reign is expanding.
The cult Euston eatery – which still draws queues round the block almost a decade after opening – has since expanded with a Roti King in Battersea and a spin-off, Gopal’s Corner, in Market Halls. And now Sugen Gopal’s added another jewel to his crown with Roti King Waterloo.
You’ll find it nestled on the charming Lower Marsh just behind the station, rubbing shoulders with Vaulty Towers and other institutions like La Barca and Cubana. And while the Southbank’s been stepping up its game recently with openings like Lasdun and Forza Wine at the National Theatre, Roti King is definitely plugging a gap in the area for a quick, affordable pre-theatre dinner with a mate.
Inside, the vibe is lively, brightly lit and laid-back. It’s a narrow sleeve of a space, marrying original butchers’ wall tiles on the left with some vibrant graffiti on the right. There’s a fleet of tables lining both sides, leading to the semi open kitchen at the back, where the Roti King chefs are doing their glorious, comforting thing.
Because this is the place to come for soul-warming, heart-stirring food from Malaysia and Singapore. Of course, the signature dish is the roti canai and this can’t be skipped: a sheet of deliciously chewy, flaky roti bread served alongside a rich curry (chicken, mutton, fish or veggie), or stuffed with lamb, chicken or spinach. But that’s not all: you’ll also find street food staples like fragrant beef rendang and a mouthwatering nasi goreng (which you can also order in veggie and vegan versions). There’s also kari laksa, a curried coconut broth bobbing with hunks of tofu and seafood, and kangkung belacan – morning glory tossed with a little shrimp paste for a hit of umami.
It wouldn’t be a roti king without serving roti for pudding, too – and you can get them here drizzled with banana, kaya coconut jam, and condensed milk, which also goes into the teh tarik (Malaysian pulled tea), prepared by pouring the tea from great heights to create a sweet, frothy top.
It’s a real crowning glory.
NOTE: Roti King Waterloo is open daily for lunch and dinner. There are no bookings, just turn up. You can find out more HERE.
Roti King Waterloo | 97 Lower Marsh, London SE1 7AB
Want to try more amazing, affordable grub? Check out our guide to cheap eats in London