Just when you thought London was never going to see the return of its chic, 1960s-Hong-Kong-styled tea room & bars…
…we went and found Wun.
Yes, Wun’s is back, courtesy of showrunners Z He and Alex Peffly. Z herself is from Hong Kong and apparently felt strongly about creating a place that gave Londoners a taste of the nostalgic Cantonese dishes from her childhood, in a space inspired by what she’d consider to be two classic components of life in HK.
It’s a two floor operation, and upstairs it boasts huge, floor-to-ceiling folding doors that open out onto the streets of Soho, allowing tables to spill out al fresco style, depending on the weather. It’s perfect for a quick lunch, but if you want to take things to the next level, you need to go downstairs…
Down here it’s dark, it’s moody, and it’s cool. It’s been designed to echo Hong Kong’s vibrant night life, and does so with gusto, throwing bright green neon onto the walls, and peppering the space with small brass-rimmed tables. A mid-century cabinet, topped with DJ decks and surrounded by palms, takes centre stage; whilst a vintage jukebox filled with old school records, brought all the way over from Taipei, sits in the corner.
The food is absolutely not the Chinese you’re used to. It’s up several beautiful notches. The menu changes relatively frequently, but it’s fast becoming a legal requirement to order their Iberico char Sui pork with spiced sugar skin. It’s simply a plate of pork with no frills or garnishes, but each piece will melt over your tastebuds in the kind of way that makes you instantly forget all common decorum and snatch the last piece off the plate without so much as offering it to your companion. And to go with it there’s crispy fried chicken with kung pao butter; helpings of stickily gorgeous lamb ribs that fall off the bone; zingy plates of tiger herb salad; earthily pungent clay pots filled with rice, beef cheek, and bone marrow; and subtly fragrant trout tartare with dan dan dressing. It’s glorious.
And the drinks? They’re no less impressive, with cocktails like the Dates & Barley, which comes theatrically over from the bar housed in a smoke-filled whisky decanter, and is then poured table-side into your glass – it’s rich, dark, and (surprise!) intensely smokey. The there’s the Marigold and Lemongrass which, thanks to the lemograss tea, comes served in its own teapot, which you can pour at your leisure.
If you haven’t had a truly great Chinese meal recently, you’ve got nothing to lose…
…and you’re guaranteed to leave feeling like you’ve wun.
NOTE: Wun’s Teahouse and Bar is open now. For more information, the take a look at the full menu, or to book, visit their website HERE.
Big fan of Cantonese cuisine? Take a look at our Guide To Chinatown here.