Statistically, there’s a fairly high chance that at least a couple of the people reading this were friends with – or even were – well-heeled celebrities during the ’80s or ’90s.
If that’s you, then a) your yacht clearly has good wifi, and b) you’ll be profoundly happy to know that Le Caprice, with all its glitz and glamour, is back – only now it’s called Arlington.
For everyone else, there’s a bit to unpack here but it’s worth it, so bear with us. Because Le Caprice was THE restaurant back in the day. Princess Diana had a permanent table there. Everyone from Madonna to Kate Moss to Mick Jagger used it like a second dining room. And it’s all thanks to its owners at the time, restaurateurs Chris Corbin & Jeremy King, who are essentially the patron saints of London’s restaurant scene, running some of the city’s most beloved eateries – The Wolseley, Brasserie Zédel, Fischers, etc. Then the pandemic came galloping along indiscriminately swinging its insolvency axe, forcing Corbin & King out of their own business.
Well, now the King is back. Jeremy King has reacquired the site of Le Caprice, and reopened it as Arlington (re-named for the street it’s on). And we’re pleased to report that it beings all the old school elegance and style right back to the forefront. They’ve faithfully restored much of the decor, the menu, and brought back Jesus Adorno, who was the general manager there for 38 years. You’re even likely to see Jeremy King himself, going from table to table, seeing how his guests are in his own inimitably charming manner.
Head under its blue awning with its blue neon sign, push through the revolving door, and you’ll find yourself in a veritable time capsule of old school elegance. The place feels like nothing’s changed since its heyday, with its monochrome-chic gilding of black & white walls cut through with shiny chrome and mirrors (deliberately placed so that people can spot celebrities while still being subtle about it). The only flashes of colour are the little pots of flowers on the starched white tablecloths. If you get a sense of retro sophistication, that’s only because the place helped invent it.
Foodwise, you’ll find a lot of the old classics that made the venue what it was, with a few new additions to help keep the menu relevant. That means time-tested numbers like Bang Bang Chicken (which involves smoked chicken in a glossy peanut dressing); huge salmon fishcakes with a rich sorrel sauce; and the zippy crispy duck & watercress salad. They’re joined here by a few new arrival, including a towering lobster thermidor soufflé. The food isn’t here to push any culinary envelopes, but it still nevertheless absolutely delivers.
For dessert, you can’t go wrong with their classic frozen Scandinavian berries in hot white chocolate sauce (poured at your table), but equally good shouts include the excellent tarte Tatin with cinnamon ice cream, and the cappuccino creme brûlée, which comes in a coffee cup so large you’ll struggle to finish it.
It’s cracking.
NOTE: Arlington is open now, seven days a week. You can find out more, and make a booking right HERE.
Arlington | 20 Arlington Street, London SW1A 1RJ
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