The Medlar founders have just opened a second restaurant on the top floor of a 19th century ice factory.
As settings go, it doesn’t get much cooler than that.
And we can only assume it was the very specific setting that the duo were holding out for, because it’s been a whole 13 years since Joe Mercer Nairne and David O’Connor opened their fine dining gem in Chelsea. Medlar’s built a reputation on finessed French dishes, served in a more relaxed environment than you’d find in most high-end establishments (yet still winning itself a Michelin star within just two years). And it’s this successful recipe that the team are aiming to replicate at this rarefied fine diner nestled among the chimney pots of Belgravia.
Justin De Souza
You’ll find it tucked into a corner of the recently revamped Eccleston Yards, which, despite being all of five minutes away from Victoria Station, feels utterly serene. Walk down a cool, marble-lined corridor; ascend to the fourth floor in a private lift; and you’ll emerge into an airy dining room that feels like it was carved from the clouds, with dazzling white walls punctuated only by the occasional lantern or sketched nude, bespoke wooden banquettes with mustard upholstery, and gauzy curtains blowing in the breeze like a scene from The Great Gatsby. It’s a peaceful space, which could border on starchy were it not for the warm, animated team led personally by David O’Connor.
Ian Walton
The menu blends British and European influences, and is currently a traditional, three course affair (although there are plans to introduce a set lunch and an extended tasting menu in the coming months). And chef Gary Foulkes – fresh from leading the kitchen at Michelin-starred Angler – executes every dish with classical finesse.
As you pore over the menu, complimentary amuse-bouches arrive in the form of toasty warm gougères, a crisp cube of pork cheek croquette and a bite-sized cauliflower mushroom tart sitting under a drift of 96 month-aged parmesan. Then it’s onto starters, and the star dish here has to be the blowout option: a nest of fresh spaghetti topped with native lobster and a dollop of caviar, all sitting in a pool of rich, rust-coloured bisque. It’s eye-wateringly expensive, unsurprisingly, but – considering you’re probably here for a special occasion – one that’s worth the extravagance if you can muster it. There’s also heritage tomatoes in a creative but not-domineering cherry dressing, roasted quail with grilled peach, and a dressed crab dish with avocado, wasabi and lime that’s also drawing high praise.
Ian Walton
Scaling up, you can choose between a variety of roasted meat and fish: just-pink lamb with capers and olives; Landes chicken with truffled corn; meaty turbot fillet on a bed of finely diced summery vegetables. In line with Medlar and Cornus’s accessible take on fine dining, you’ll be glad to hear that these are all served in decent, wholesome portions, with only minimal tweezering of micro herbs. But there’s still a lightness to them that means you won’t leave feeling like you could operate the lift back down through gravity alone – even if you approach the desserts with gusto.
And you should, because they’re all pretty irresistible: highlights include the brown sugar custard tart (a sleek, melt-in-the-mouth slice topped with a bright mauve scoop of blackberry ice cream) and the elegant rice pudding, swirled through with cherries and caramelised oat milk. But there’s also a dark chocolate barquette with pistachio and caramel; a tempting cheeseboard; and a mille-feuille prepared with seasonal fruit by ex-Cornerstone pastry chef Kelly Cullen.
Ian Walton
Going with all this is a truly stellar wine selection put together by wine director Melania Battiston, assisted by the current World Young Sommelier of the Year, Lukasz Gorski. There’s quite an impressive amount on offer by the glass, if you want to switch between courses, and you should definitely pick their brains for recommendations. But we’d also highly recommend an apéritif from the marble-clad bar to start: the clarified coffee negroni is already a house favourite.
Sampling that must be one of the perks of the job.
NOTE: Cornus is open daily – you can find out more, and make a booking on the Cornus website.
Cornus | 27 Eccleston Place, London SW1W 9NF
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