“Combine one degree in microbiology, a dash of training with Marco Pierre White, leave to mature for 25 years, then decorate with two Michelin Stars.”
That would be the entry for Phil Howard in How to Cook Cooks. And, if you’ve never experienced his culinary expertise before, now’s the time, because he’s dubbed Elystan Street his “last hurrah”.
Yes it’s a swanky sojourn in Chelsea, but with its concrete tabletops and pastel upholstery, this place feels more like fine dining on dress down Friday. That vibe extends to the menu, with a focus on cleaner, more seasonal dishes that’ll leave you with a spring in your step, instead of a stent in your heart. Phil himself is on pans composing a delightful (re)mix of everything good from British gastronomy. There’s:
Going green doesn’t mean munching in monochrome. You’ve choices from across the spectrum including beetroot with pear and pesto, roasted cauliflower with pickled mushrooms, and hand cut strozzapreti with truffles. The confectionery is just as colourful with everything from rhubarb sorbet to chocolate and blood orange delice.
Dive inside an ocean of nautical nibbles for some scallop tartare with langoustine and sea bream, roast cod with melted trotter, or saute of octopus with squid.
There’s fun and game to be had here with ravioli of rabbit, spatchcock quail with pistachio couscous, and loin of deer with celeriac and quince.
After all that you’ll have no problem raising a toast – the cellar goes as deep as your pockets will allow.
With the Chelsea Pensioners down the road, let’s just hope Phil keeps retirement firmly on the horizon.
NOTE: Elystan Street is open seven days a week from 12:30pm-2:45pm and 6:30pm-10:30pm.
Elystan Street | 43 Elystan Street, SW3 3NT
Like top shelf dining? Peruse our guide to the current list of Michelin Starred restaurants in London