Jason Allen 04/01/24


The guys behind Fallow have opened a chicken restaurant…

…and they haven’t cocked it up.

It’s called FOWL, and you’ll find it quite literally around the corner from Fallow itself – which, it should be noted, is one of the best and most creatively sustainable restaurants in town right now. And which, it should also be noted, started life as a pop up… and then won itself a Bib Gourmand as a pop up. So, chicken shop or not, expectations have been firmly jammed up to 11.


The venue itself is a ridiculously chic space for what started out as a pop-up venture (and has now gone permanent). FOWL has taken over a former gastro called the Beau Brummell, which features a gorgeous curved swell of floor-to-ceiling windows that throws light onto racing green leather banquettes and a handsome parquet floor. It might even be better looking than Fallow. And there’s also a glorious, awning-shaded terrace with a smattering of bistro tables and chairs.

The menu of this chicken restaurant consists mostly, you’ll be amazed to find out, of chicken. But not just any chicken – they’ve sourced theirs from The Ethical Butcher & Rare Breed Meats, who pasture-raise their birds for twice as long as standard, on farms that use regenerative agriculture. And being so heavily into sustainability, they’re leaning into the ‘beak to feet’ philosophy here, making sure no part of those birds goes unused.


The upshot? Is that literally everything on the menu at FOWL includes some form of poultry – even dessert. Thus things start with cornbread topped with a chicken & herb butter, or some chicken liver parfait with black cherry & sourdough. Then, you’ll get the likes of the delightful sounding “triple crisp” chicken fillet buns, or a Caesar salad with pickled lemon & anchovy, all sided by chicken fries. And as for that dessert? It’s a chicken fat crème caramel.

And just to add one more feather to their hen-topped cap, they’re also enlisting guest chefs to add their own one-off menu items (including the likes of Pierre Koffmann and the team at Table Manners). And they’re running a delightful Sunday Roast too – you’ll get a full on plateful of fluffy Yorkies, tender carrots, crisp roasties, and bright greens, as well as either their succulent chicken (with a chicken foot for good measure), or a huge hen of the woods mushroom. You can even get a chicken head pie, complete with the actual chicken head. And for dessert? A gorgeous chicken fat tarte tatin.

Frankly, they’ve got a lot to crow about.


NOTE: FOWL is open Tuesday-Sunday. You can find out more, and book a table (though they also take walk-ins), right HERE.

FOWL | Norris St, St. James’s Market, SW1Y 4RJ

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Norris St, St. James's Market, St James's, Central London, SW1Y 4RJ

8.7 | Great