Restaurants

Jason Allen 21/11/22


Kuro Eatery

Despite only opening in Notting Hill last year, the little cafe Kuro Coffee has already moved onto Phase Two of its mission to keep you up at night… by opening a restaurant right next door.

And it’s an absolute gem.

Like all the best gems, it’s just a little bit hidden – you can find it by coming out of Notting Hill Gate station and veering away from the throngs heading north to Portobello Market, and instead dipping into the innocuous side street just to the south of the station. There, you’ll find both Kuro Coffee and Kuro Eatery, staring across at eachother from the corners of a quiet little junction, with a smattering of locals milling around.

Kuro Eatery
Image: David Hatfield

Inside, it’s an extremely small affair, making itself feel a teeny bit larger thanks to its stripped-back aesthetic – but it nevertheless manages to be minimalist without being cold or stark about it. The straw-coloured wooden furnishings, with candles on every table, and small bundles of delicate flowers lend it some considerable warmth.

Oh, and those milling locals? Head chef Andrianos Poulis was one of them back when when he headed up the kitchen at Mazi, which is literally only a few yards away from the front door. That’s after he took a stint at the Michelin Starred Cornerstone, it should be added. He used to stop in at Kuro’s coffee shop each day, and fell in love with it. So when they decided to open a restaurant, they did the obvious thing, and hired him.

The menu he’s put together is a real joy – Mediterranean and Japanese influxes commingle quite naturally (honestly, it’s not so unusual – see Angelina for proof) to produce delights like beetroot with walnut sugar, port, and cashew cream, or a small tower of sweet bream ceviche brightened up fermented chilli and green apple. The larger dishes include a flattened, grilled mullet with a smoky bbq carrot sauce, and a plate-filling pork chop with fiery chilli pork fat & aged soy sauce.

This is said porkchop, and it’s delicious

But the best bit? Here, chef Andrianos has created dishes like Tiramichoux, an eye-popping eclair made with layers of coffee jelly, marscapone cream, and chocolate; or his burnt cheesecake, which is made with some kind of black magic to create the lightest, fluffiest, most cloud-like cheesecake you’ve ever tasted.

And after this? The team at Kuro have just opened a bakery, which is the preserve of Nicolas Ruty, a third-generation French baker fresh from The Savoy.

So, there’s a slim chance that it’ll turn out well…

 

NOTE: Kuro Eatery is now open Tuesday to Sunday for breakfast, lunch and dinner. You can make a reservation right here.

Kuro Eatery | 5 Hillgate St, London W8 7SP


More fluffy bites please? Check out the best Japanese bakeries in London…

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Kuro Eatery


5 Hillgate St, Notting Hill, Notting Hill, W8 7SP




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