Hattie Lloyd 02/06/23


Laxeiro has been serving up Galician tapas on Columbia Road for over four decades; no mean feat when the area’s changed so much. Back then, it was a simple deli, but the number of tables steadily grew…

That success can be pinned down to the family-run atmosphere, the warm service, the quality of the cooking, and the interiors, which give the impression of dining in a Spanish pantry. Bottles are stacked on high shelving running across the room, daily specials are scrawled up onto a blackboard, and a collection of worn wooden tables and azure painted chairs are packed into the space, spilling onto the street outside on particularly Spanish-feeling days.

laxeiro table outside

Dishes here are cooked with a mixture of ingredients imported directly from Spain, while everything else is sourced from other local, family-run businesses (founder Isabel grew up on a farm, so let’s just say she knows her onions). And naturally, the best approach is to order as much as you can manage, and share – pick from barbecued Iberico pork shoulder and pan-fried seabass with a white wine salsa; Serrano ham croquetas with alioli; smoky, grilled octopus with paprika and a glorious Spanish omelette.

Washing it all down is – no surprise – a selection of all-Spanish wines, sherry, cava, and sangria by the jug, plus Seville’s answer to the mojito, the rebujito, with sherry, lemonade and mint.

laxeiro octopus dish

Sundays are especially busy at Laxeiro given that Columbia Road Flower Market sets up shop right outside (if you can’t get a table, console yourself with some churros to go), but it’s worth popping by on a weekday to a) maximise your chances of getting a seat, and b) take advantage of their weekday lunch deal: two dishes and a drink for £15.

That’s almost 1982 prices.


NOTE: Laxeiro is open Tuesday – Saturday for lunch and dinner, and Sundays for breakfast through to lunch. You can find out more, and make a booking, HERE.

Laxeiro | 93 Columbia Road, London E2 7RG

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93 Columbia Road, Hackney, E2 7RG

020 7729 1147

8.3 | Great