When the team behind the excellent Perilla announced that they were opening a new restaurant in a former bank off Exmouth Market, let’s just say they gained a lot of interest.
And now that it’s open, we’re happy to report that it’s exactly as good as we were hoping.
The space itself is surprisingly inviting and atmospheric – all the cold, hard cash has now been replaced by warm, pale wood, which adorns the walls, the floor, and the furnishings. Dominating the space it a huge hairpin bar that clasps the open kitchen behind it, and anchors the seating areas in front.
And as with Perilla, this place is all about the details (largely thanks to front-of-house man Matthew Emmerson): there are nifty folding seats which can be flipped down from the bar itself, and next to each diner there’s a hidden drawer recessed seamlessly into the table/bar with a menu and enough cutlery for the whole meal. It’s quite delightful.
Inside that buzzing & bustling open kitchen, things are headed up by award-wining Executive Chef Ben Marks (who did stints at NOMA) & the Great British Menu finalist head chef Daniel Fletcher (who helped The Square keep their Michelin Stars). They’re cooking up a Mediterranean menu that changes with the seasons, but you can expect the likes of bouncy focaccia; light & flavourful spanakopita (they’re Greek feta & spinach parcels, and they’re lovely); hearty monkfish in a rich cuttlefish stew; salt-baked poussin in a punchy chilli sauce theatrically presented with a crust-like dome; and an absolutely fantastic, thick lemon tart, with just a hint of bitterness and a crisp & thin pastry base.
Make your way around the back of the place, and you’ll find their wine bar too, which feels like a natural continuation of the restaurant itself. The high ceilings here have been stacked with a library of wine bottles, and there are even a few on tap, too. The wine are well chosen, and they’re made as accessible as possible, being broken down on the menu by their flavour profile.
And the name? A morchella is a type of morel mushroom. But the only morel dilemma you’ll be facing…
…will be choosing what to order.
NOTE: Morchella is open now. You can find out more, and make a booking, HERE.
Morchella | 84 Rosebery Avenue, Clerkenwell, EC1R 4QY
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