Jason Allen 10/07/23
Mountain | Tomos Parry’s Soho Restaurant
Tomos Parry’s first restaurant – Brat – won a Michelin Star within six months of opening.
Well, he’s just opened his second restaurant, Mountain.
So no pressure.
It’s in Soho, housed in a grand red brick building that was formerly a Byron Burgers, which used to be a Pizza Express, and before that was the cabaret club where the Profumo Affair started and which ended up bringing down the British government.
Again, no pressure.
Head inside, and you’ll find a two-floor space. Up top, the main restaurant space is doused in daylight thanks to the belt of huge windows wrapping around the length of the building, showing off its beautiful pale wood furnishings, wine-bottle lined shelves, and bustling open kitchen. Head downstairs, and you’ll emerge into a considerably moodier, darker space which is centrepieced around a bar loaded with vinyl & cocktail shakers, as well as a huge wood fired oven, demonically blazing away.
The food here draws its inspiration from the same well as Brat, mostly taking its cues from Spain’s tradition of simple wood-fired grills loaded with high-quality produce (particularly, in this case, from Wales & Anglesey). Expect the likes of pink bream split & scorched on the plancha grill; plates of wood-grilled lamb chops; some raw Carmarthen prawns with wild asparagus; and a centrepiece dish of whole Anglesey lobster caldereta, which is brought directly from the grill to the table inside steaming ceramic pots for two to three people to share.
The bar downstairs has vermouth on tap, ready to be poured into citrus spritzes & inventive cocktails. And of course the wine list hasn’t exactly been neglected – the team have put together a list of vintages that all have some meaning to the restaurant. Just ask, and they’ll be happy to tell you what makes each one special.
Hell, this place may even be better than Byron Burger.
NOTE: Mountain is open now. You can find out more and make a booking at their website right here.
Mountain | Hardy House, 16-18 Beak St, W1F 9RD
Here’s your food covered, how about drinks after? Check out the best pubs in Soho…
Hardy House, 16-18 Beak St, Soho, W1F 9RD
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9.0 | Amazing
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