Rupert Hohwieler 06/04/23
The Hunter’s Moon | Game-changing Sunday Roasts in West London
The Hunter’s Moon can be a spiritual experience.
Particularly if you try their Sunday roast…
It’s named after the period in October when the moon glows orange and animals stockpile meat in preparation for winter – something you’ll find out, can also be done here.
Sitting on the Fulham Road – between Chelsea and South Kensington – it also can’t seem to make its mind up on whether it wants to be a chummy, well-worn countryside pub or a posh, well-heeled Chelsea restaurant, so instead it’s gone for both; on one half you have the traditional boozer with dark forest green painted walls, oak floors, ales, tail-wagging dogs (it’s dog-friendly) and cosy armchairs that you could easily enjoy a deep sleep in – and on the other, a scrubbed-up dining room where food comes first; there’s olive leather banquettes, tiled floors, blackboards with daily specials, and hanging pendant lights. The best of both worlds.
The two sides marry well thanks to the combined powers of Hubert Beatson-Hird and chef Oliver Marlowe. The two have put a lot of thought into the food – foie gras and chicken liver parfait with white wine jelly and toasted brioche; tuna sashimi with whipped avocado; Jersey rock oysters; and because it’s Chelsea… Cornish caviar with truffle crisps and gribiche, the French cold egg sauce.
These are some of the starters you can giddily pick between, and with the mains you have another battle on your hands – going between the likes of homemade pappardelle in a slow-cooked venison ragu or braised feather blade with truffle mayonnaise. Everything is carefully sourced from reputed suppliers and spot-on.
But… in saying all that, if you rock up on a Sunday then you simply have to throw everything out the window and just go with the roast. It’s without a doubt The Hunter’s Moon’s star turn and right up there with some of London’s best Sunday roasts. Begin with a bloody cocktail – a Mary, a Caesar, a Maria – and then get stuck into either treacle-cured sirloin beef, butter-roast corn fed chicken; or stuffed Gloucester Old Spot pork belly with caramelised apple sauce. Fear not: each is then properly backed by roasties, greens, gravy and a Yorkshire pud, and don’t forget to spruce it up even further with the cauliflower truffle cheese too.
No wonder everyone moons over it…
NOTE: The Hunter’s Moon is open daily. You can find out more and book on their website, here.
The Hunters Moon | 86 Fulham Rd, South Kensington, London SW3 6HR
Already been? Ticked it off? Onto another one of the best South Kensington restaurants then…
86 Fulham Road, Chelsea, SW3 6HR
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0203 904 2270
8.4 | Great
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