Steven Joyce
Jason Allen 25/01/23
Berber & Q | Middle-Eastern Grill House In A Railway Arch
Berber & Q do something rather innovative.
They cook Middle Eastern food using American BBQ-ing techniques.
And this is novel for two reasons: 1) you probably haven’t seen it on another menu, let alone tasted it, and 2) because – understatement alert! – historically, America and the Middle East don’t mix very well.
Well, here they mix extremely well. In fact, Berber & Q is one of the best restaurants in East London‘s absurdly competitive restaurant scene.
Fresh from its first rejig since opening in 2015, Berber & Q occupies a converted railway arch right next to Haggerston station. Inside, that industrial muscularity is heightened with patinated metal, distressed wood furnishings, and cast iron fittings – all of which is softened with Medina-like patterns on the glass, velvet banquette seating and hand-painted signs inspired by the backstreets of Morocco adorning the bare brick walls.
Berber & Q is suffused with that provocative, appetite-whetting smell of protein being smoked and scorched on a BBQ, drifting from the open kitchen in the back. Grabbing a seat at one of the long benches (as is also fairly typical of American BBQ places), you’ll see a menu filled with the things you’re smelling: burnt baba ganoush with pomegranate; crispy artichoke hearts served with pilpelchuma aioli; and a rich bacon cornbread (which really is something else). Ex-Palomar chef Jeremy Borrow gives just as much time to the veg as to the meat and seafood, with main courses including the likes of smoked mussels in harissa broth; vegetable skewers drizzled in tahini; and merguez sausage sitting on a zingy butterbean ragout.
Washing all this down you’ll find some lively and inventive house cocktails, including an Old Fashioned stirred with Turkish coffee-infused tobacco liqueur, and the Berber Souk, with mezcal, pul biber agave & herbs. And they’re exactly as good as they sound…
…so don’t be surprised if, when you turn up, there’s a Q.
NOTE: Berber & Q is open for dinner Tuesday-Saturday, plus lunch on Saturday. You can find out more and book on their website right HERE.
ALSO NOTE: If you liked this place, you’ll no doubt be delighted to hear they also have a second restaurant, Berber & Q Shawarma Bar…
Berber & Q | Arch 338 Acton Mews, E8 4EA
Nightcap? Go on then. Check out our favourite bars in East London
Arch 338 Acton Mews, Haggerston, E8 4EA View On Map
020 7923 0829
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9.0 | Amazing
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