8.8
Great

Bar Lina

Bars

Jason Allen 16/01/24


Bar Lina

Lina Stores is turning 80 this year, and it’s aged as gracefully as the very finest booze…

…which helps explain why they’ve just opened a cocktail bar stuffed with exactly that.

The place itself is called Bar Lina, and it’s taken up residence underneath the original deli on Soho’s Brewer street. It’s replaced the fresh pasta kitchen that made the place so zealously adored and which, since the emergence of their micro-empire of restaurants (in Soho, King’s Cross, Clapham, Marylebone, and The City), has become supplanted by its newer & bigger siblings. So the show-runners decided to give the space a slightly more alluring change of pace.

And it turns out to have been an excellent call.

bar lina

To get in, you’ll still have to enter the deli the old fashioned way, escorting your date/companion past rows of biscotti & olive oil before finding the staircase at the back. It feels like micro-dosing the restaurant entrance from Goodfellas. Head down into the bar itself, and you’ll arrive in a gorgeous, moody, and intimate little hideaway steeped in low-lit crimson & coffee-tones throughout. If you didn’t know any better, you’d be forgiven for assuming that the place actually had been built back in the ’50s and was waiting down there the whole time.

What’s impressive about Bar Lina is that every ingredient lining the marble bar shelves is either made in-house, like the coffee butter and prickly pear syrup, or sourced from Italy – so alongside familiar names like Campari and Cocchi you’ll get to know Bepi Tosolini’s wild strawberry aperitivo, Villa Ascenti gin made with Piedmontese botanicals, and nocino, an unripe walnut liqueur.

They’re all whizzed into innovative, Italian takes on classic cocktails, and naturally they lean heavy towards negronis (there are half a dozen twists, including one with chamomile liqueur) and several spritzes (they make a rosemary & honey infused Campari which they’ve mixed with grapefruit & Prosecco). Then there’s the house originals – their Figlet involves housemade fig liqueur, Parafante fig liqueur, some more fig, and a little vanilla, while the extraordinary Basilico is a twist on a gin martini that adds clarified milk, salt and basil for a smooth, creamy feel and a herbal finish. It’s a bit like boozy pesto, and you’ve likely never had anything like it before.

bar lina

Since Bar Lina is right underneath a deli, there are bar snacks to be had too, with a whole array of charcuterie & cheeses, plus made-to-order bites ranging from ossobuco arancini to fried parmesan polenta showered with mushroom & truffle; seabream with lime & basil crudo; and some intensely moreish seadas – little fried parcels filled with melted cheese.

And upstairs? The deli space will remain open, meaning you can go home with a bellyful of extremely fine alcohol, as well as an armful of pasta, amaretti, and aged balsamic vinegar.

Which still isn’t quite old enough to drink.

 

NOTE: Bar Lina is open now, Monday – Sunday. You can find out more, and make a booking at the website right HERE.

PREVIOUS PERK: Nudge Members (+1) got 2-4-1 cocktails from 6pm-8pm, 21st January – 4th February.

Bar Lina | 18 Brewer St, W1F 0SG


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Bar Lina


18 Brewer Street, Soho, Central London, W1F 0SG

8.8 | Great