Jason Allen 08/04/24

Bottle + Rye

Robin Gill is on a roll.

In fact, he’s been on a roll for about the past decade. He first opened The Dairy back in 2013, and with its focus on seasonality, local ingredients, and frequently changing menus, managed to become one of the most influential restaurants in the city. In the intervening years, he’s cut the ribbon on similarly vaunted places like Sorella, Darby’s, Maria G’s, and now, Bottle + Rye.

You’ll find it parked on the entrance to Brixton’s Market Row, where the parade of shops & restaurants meets the street. Inside, the place is small, with an elbow of counter seating bent around the tall Parisian bar that very much defines the space – it’s a wine bar through and through, and a handsome one at that.

Bottle + Rye

Bottle + Rye differs from its siblings in that Gill has actually taken a step back from cooking here, and instead invites a series of exciting chefs to come and do their thing for a couple of weeks at a time. Taking over from the hugely popular Lee Westcott is one Lawrence Barrow who has created a pop up concept called Hearth and Tine.

The idea is for it to serve up “a modern take on traditional Irish dishes” which is an idea after Robin Gill’s heart if there ever was one. Thos dishes include the likes of Darby’s sourdough with smoked dulce butter; aged beef tartare with crisp potatoes; confit chalk stream trout with a smoked eel broth; and some braised lamb breast with Jersey royals & asparagus.

This is a wine bar, and the selection at Bottle + Rye changes regularly, leaning heavily towards largely low-intervention bottles, and prices start at just £6 for a glass. And if you fancy something stronger? The cocktail list is all original (although they’ll happily shake up almost any classic you care to request), and features the likes of a Mushroom Martini with thyme and truffle oil.

It’s one for the seasoned drinkers.


NOTE: Bottle + Rye is open now, Tuesday to Saturday. You can find out more, and make a booking, right HERE.

Bottle + Rye | 404-406 Market Row, Brixton SW9 8LD

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Bottle + Rye

404-406 Market Row, Brixton, SW9 8LD

8.6 | Great