Jason Allen 13/09/22
Robin Gill is on a roll.
In fact, he’s been on a roll for about the past decade. He first opened The Dairy back in 2013, and with its focus on seasonality, local ingredients, and frequently changing menus, managed to become one of the most influential restaurants in the city. In the intervening years, he’s cut the ribbon on similarly vaunted places like Sorella, Darby’s, Maria G’s, and now, Bottle + Rye.
You’ll find it parked on the entrance to Brixton’s Market Row, where the parade of shops & restaurants meets the street. Inside, the place is small, with an elbow of counter seating bent around the tall Parisian bar that very much defines the space – it’s a wine bar through and through, and a handsome one at that.
The menu is a simple parade of small plates, scrawled daily on the huge blackboard hung on the back wall. As with every Robin Gill joint, it changes with some regularity, but you can expect to find a few stalwart – plates of flavour-packed charcuterie and saucisson; a bowl of smoked eel brandade (it’s like the most glorious mashed potato) with massive shards of pink fir chips sticking out of it; and a stunning sunflower seed & courgette tart. But the best bit? A simple slice of toast draped in a couple of silky Cantabrian anchovies. You’ll want to order a couple, trust us.
The wine part of this wine bar is no less impressive, with a list of largely low-intervention bottles making up a regularly changing selection, and prices start at just a fiver for a glass. And if you fancy something stronger? The cocktail list is all original (although they’ll happily shake up almost any classic you care to request), and features the likes of a Raspberry Bisou made with Armagnac, whiskey, and fiery Sichuan pepper.
It’s one for the seasoned drinkers.
NOTE: Bottle + Rye is open now, Wednesday to Sunday. You can find out more, and make a booking at the website right here.
Bottle + Rye | 404-406 Market Row, Brixton SW9 8LD
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404-406 Market Row, Brixton, Brixton, Brixton, SW9 8LD
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7.6 | Good
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