Features

Hattie Lloyd 01/09/19


The Best Brixton Restaurants

Whether you’re on the hunt for a little Japanese soul food, a Caribbean roti or a couple of Indian small plates, Brixton is jam-packed full of great places to eat.

Check out our numero unos below:

Fish, Wings & Tings | £

Trinidadian Brian Danclair is the chef-owner of this eternally packed-out Brixton institution. It’s hard to miss, blasting out reggae right by the entrance of the covered market, with punters spilling out onto the kerbside to cool off with Red Stripe and rum punch in the sunshine. The food menu – divided into Small Tings and Big Tings – covers all kinds of Caribbean classics, from fried plantain and cod fish fritters to curried mutton roti and jerk chicken. It’s a taste of how Brixton used to be, and it’s excellent.

FWT full up? Try your luck at Brian’s new place, Danclair’s Kitchen, inside the arcade.

Details: 3 Granville Arcade, Coldharbour Lane, Brixton, SW9 8PR Open Tues-Sun, 12-10pm (11pm Fri & Sat) Just turn up

Nanban | ££

Coming to you from the youngest ever Masterchef winner, Tim Anderson, Nanban is precisely the restaurant you need to visit next time you experience a particular craving for Japanese soul food infused with European influences and ingredients fresh off Brixton market. Which, naturally, means dishes like plantain katsu curry; breaded Japanese mackerel with jerk mayo; and this – their famous Lazy Goat Ragù-men, with Scotch bonnet-pickled bamboo shoots.

Details: 426 Coldharbour Lane, SW9 8LF | Open weekdays 5-11pm, Sat 12pm-late, Sun 12-10pm Book here

Chishuru | £££

chishuru brixton

There’s a shop in Brixton Village that changes every year. It’s an incubation space, where up-and-coming chefs are given the keys to their own restaurant for stretches of six months or so, giving them the opportunity to get their feet on the ladder and test out their ideas. Currently in situ is Chishuru, an exceptional Modern West African spot from Nigerian-born Adejoké ‘Joké’ Bakare. She’s in there manning the pans herself, turning out exquisitely presented and flavourful dishes inspired by her home country, which you can sample in the form of a reasonably priced tasting menu.

Details: 9 Market Row, Coldharbour Lane, London SW9 8LB Open for dinner Tues-Sat, plus lunch Fri & Sat Book here

Naughty Piglets | £££

Husband and wife duo Joe and Margaux Sharratt had long wanted to open a restaurant.

And Naughty Piglets is the realisation of their hambitions.

The grill restaurant and wine bar is so popular, in fact, that Andrew Lloyd-Webber instantly offered the pair a follow-up spot at his theatre, The Other Palace. The Brixton original, however, has a more intimate feel, serving up small plates like fried duck egg with apricot and girolles alongside carefully-selected wines and homemade damson gin.

Details: 28 Brixton Water Lane, SW2 1PE Open for lunch Wed-Sat, dinner Tues-Sat | Book here

Kricket | £££

Kricket’s original pop up was in Brixton, so it’s fitting that they’ve come back to their roots for their second permanent spot.

And they’ve gone all-out.

It’s a strangely romantic spot, with soft leather banquettes and mismatched wooden furnishings nestled in an industrial railway arch space. The dishes are all ‘Anglo-Indian’ in style, so expect numbers like Goan sausage croquettes; spiced cod roe on telicherry paratha; and Keralan fried chicken with curry leaf mayo…

Details: 41-43 Atlantic Road, SW9 8JLOpen Mon-Thurs 5-10.30pm, Fri-Sat 12-10.30pm, closed Sun Book here

Three Uncles | ££

Three Uncles specialise in Hong Kong style siu mei (literally ‘roasted meats’ in Cantonese), which is what the menu here revolves around. You can get absurdly succulent duck still on the bone, char Sui BBQ pork, or Hainan style spiced chicken all piled onto bowls of rice or delicate Lo Main noodles. It’s a small space, and it’a highly casual, but if you’re after a first-rate lunch, or a lovely light dinner, then you can’t really beat it.

Details: 19 & 20 Brixton Village, SW9 8PR

Asmara | ££

A Brixton staple for years now, Asmara is named after the Eritrean capital and – spoiler alert – serves the country’s traditional fare. Order the platter for two, laden with spongy injera (almost like pancakes) for tearing off and scooping up the heaps of meat and veg dotted over the top. It also wins points for serving popcorn as a digestif, alongside powerful coffee that’s roasted before your eyes with aromatic spices.

Details: 386 Coldharbour Lane, SW9 8LF Open Fri-Wed, 5.30pm-12am 020 7737 4144

POP Brixton | £

A pop up village constructed entirely from disused shipping containers, bursting with greenery and strung up with festoon lighting, that’s home to impromptu jazz concerts, DJ nights and weekend markets. Peruse the dozens of independent boutiques and vintage stores before exploring the alleyways lined with street food vendors hawking steaming bowls of ramen and sizzling jerk chicken – or head to sit-down restaurants like Congolese spot Brazza or Only Food and Courses, Robbie Lorraine’s casual fine diner (Jay Rayner’s a fan).

Details: 49 Brixton Station Road, SW9 8PQ Open all day, every day | Just turn up, or book Brazza here and Only Food and Courses here

Temaki | ££

Temaki

Charlie McKay

Chef and rice expert Shaulan Steenson will feed you until you ask him to stop. And we mean that quite literally, because he’ll happily serve you an omakase selection of sushi hand rolls over the counter of his minimalist, teeny tiny bar in Brixton Market…

Details: Unit 12 Market Row, Brixton, SW9 8LD | Open for dinner Tues-Sat, plus lunch Fri & Sat | Book here

Maremma | ££

Maremma

As hinted at by the name, it’s a celebration of both food and drink from the Maremma region in Tuscany; a bright and airy neighbourhood restaurant, serving a short menu of seasonal Tuscan dishes – fresh pasta, fresh fish, and game – alongside a wine list, filled with wines, many of which are undiscoverable anywhere else in the UK.

Details: 36 Brixton Water Lane, Brixton, SW2 1PE | Wed-Thurs, 5.30-10pm; Fri-Sat, 12-3.30pm and 5.30-10pm; and Sun 12-4pm | Book here

 

Last updated: 10th March 2022 | Main image: Maremma


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