As chefs go, Jackson Boxer is a name that packs a punch.
After opening venerated restaurants like Brunswick House and Orasay, he’s developed an aura of envelope-pushing talent about him – so when he cuts the ribbon on a new place like Henri, people pay attention.
It’s a rather pretty & atmospheric little Parisian bistro and he’s partnered up on it with the The Experimental Group, who usually traffic in bars like the Experimental Cocktail Club. And the good news is that, at least for the most part, the experiment is a success.
You’ll find Henri on the ground floor of the Henrietta Experimental hotel, which you’ll find on Henrietta Street in Covent Garden. This is one of the true restaurant nucleuses of London, and you could walk out of Henri’s front door, throw a stick, and hit Notto, Cora Pearl, The Oystermen, Ave Mario, Din Tai Fung, Pivot, Flat Iron and more. It would have to be a good throw but still, you get it – this is a competitive space.
Step inside the handsome the 19th-century townhouse that houses it, wend your way past the hotel reception, and you’ll find a cosy little sleeve of a space. There’s a cocktail bar at one end, an open kitchen at the other, and a bottle-neck in the middle that squeezes the tables so the diners have to sit side-by-side. But the rest of the space is a little roomier, and is made warm & intimate thanks to tables lit by candles, dressed in crisp white linens, and topped with smooth marble veneers.
‘Seaweed canelés’ – not a phrase you expect to come out of your mouth, but they are lovely going in.
On the menu, Boxer has lined up a pretty interesting blend of classic French dishes with frequent creative touches. There are snacks like the seaweed canelés (which are bouncy & earthy, and topped with salty roe) and the fried pied de cochons, which clasp rich pork in an absurdly crispy shell. The starters include a plateful of ruby red raw tuna partnered up with bright slices of green tomatoes & melon, and beyond that that standouts include a cheese-loaded raclette burger, and a charcoal-grilled duck breast with blood orange, green olives, and mint – surprisingly delicious combination.
The raw tuna is soaked in a sauce you’ll want to lap out of the plate
There’s plenty of wine and cognac too, and that cocktail bar is being pressed into service to make Experimental Group concoctions like the Antoine, which blends gin, elderflower, lime, cucumber, and a ‘spicy tincture’ with a delightfully pleasing edge to it.
And that packs a punch, too.
NOTE: Henri is open daily for lunch, dinner, and drinks. You can find out more, and book a table right HERE.
Henri | 14 – 15 Henrietta Street, WC2E 8QH
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