A ‘sustainable pop up’ may sound like something of an oxymoron… but it all works thanks to some good old-fashioned modern thinking.
That newfangled, ethical attitude comes from Fallow, the new tenant in the rotating pop up space at 10 Heddon Street. The first two residencies to come out of the venue have been stunners: Manteca went permanent in Soho and became one of the best openings of 2019, then Pacific knocked the socks off critics & customers alike with its outstanding sushi.
So the expectations for Fallow have been relatively high.
Luckily, the two chefs behind it, Jack Croft & Will Murray, are both crazily talented. They met while manning stoves at Dinner by Heston, where they bonded over their shared interests in both sustainability and possessing crazy amounts of talent, then showed the world what they can do in a couple of stellar pop ups at both Carousel and Crispin in Spitalfields.
The food here is just… fantastic. You’ll start off with snacks, including the Fallow scrumpets (little venison croquettes topped by gherkin mayonnaise) and smoked beef dandy ribs… but what you cannot miss are the corn ribs. Flash fried and dusted with an umami-laden kombu seasoning, they’re devilishly good (and not just for vegan diners).
Moving onto the larger plates, there’s flamed mussels in Sriracha sauce and deer tartare; a mouthwatering combination of soft buttery leeks with hen of the woods (a kind of mushroom); a flame-scorched fish of the day; and steak for two with kombu fries. And you can cap it all off with a good old-fashioned knickerbocker glory, featuring soft-serve ice cream made from plum stones that would otherwise be discarded, and a frankly pioneering tart that couples lemon and lime with salted caramel, served with milk ice cream.
To wash it all down, there’s a list of biodynamic wines – including some from Renegade Urban Winery in Bethnal Green, where they ship over grapes from France and crush them into hooch within 24 hours – and creative cocktails like the Thames Path, which combines London-made rum and vermouth with green Chartreuse.
It’s all exceptional. Just be prepared to take a fallow day after.
NOTE: Fallow is open daily for lunch and dinner. You can find out more and make a booking at their website right HERE.
Fallow | 10 Heddon Street, W1B 4BX
Looking for a nightcap nearby? Head down to Kwānt