A ‘sustainable pop up’ may sound like something of an oxymoron… but it all works thanks to some good old-fashioned modern thinking.
That newfangled, ethical attitude comes from Fallow, the new tenant in the rotating pop up space at 10 Heddon Street. The first two residencies to come out of the venue have stunners: Manteca went permanent in Soho and became one of the best openings of last year, then Pacific knocked the socks off critics & customers alike with its outstanding sushi.
So the expectations for Fallow have been relatively high.
Luckily, the two chefs behind it: Jack Croft & Will Murray are both crazily talented. They met while manning stoves at Dinner by Heston, where they bonded over their shared interests in both sustainability and possessing crazy amounts of talent, then showed the world what they can do in a couple of stellar pop ups at both Carousel and Crispin in Spitalfields.
And that sustainability thing isn’t just lip service. For one, they’re re-using the Heddon Street’s elegant decor – you’ll still find the same stylish industrial lighting, the warehouse-style windows, that beautiful poured concrete bar, and the skylit dining area by the open kitchen at the back.
They’re also putting out a weekly changing menu of ‘root to stem’ and ‘nose to tail’ dishes, with roughly half of each menu being plant-based. And there’s a particular emphasis on using the parts that other restaurants would normally throw out, such as chicken scratchings, veal tail and goat ribs.
Thus, the opening menu announces itself with a selection of small & large plates like corn ribs with old bay; some lamb scrumpet with smoked mayo; a sizeable helping of caramelised cauliflower cheese with whey & shiitake; and some pork collar with celeriac & cider.
And the desserts? Expect the likes of a light lemon peel pudding with yoghurt ice cream; a dollop of coffee ganache with pistachio & coconut; or some rich oat ice cream with malt & caramel.
To wash it all down, there’s a list of biodynamic wines & creative cocktails. And if it’s anywhere near as good as its predecessors, we’ve got a very good tradition on our hands…
NOTE: Fallow is open daily and currently taking bookings until the end of January 2021, at 10 Heddon Street. You can find out more and make a booking at their website right HERE.
Fallow | 10 Heddon Street, W1B 4BX
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