It’s weird to start an article about a restaurant by talking about a different restaurant. But in the case of Long Chim, it’s warranted.
That other restaurant is Nahm, which was opened by chef David Thompson in London back in 2001, becoming the first Thai restaurant in Europe ever to win a Michelin Star. He then moved the whole concept over to Bangkok itself where it was promptly named the ‘Best Restaurant In Asia’ on the World’s 50 Best List. And won a Michelin Star again. His acolytes & apprentices have been responsible for places like Som Saa (run by two former Nahm chefs), Smoking Goat, and Farang, and without him, Thai food in the West simply wouldn’t be what it is today.
Well, now he’s back in London, and Long Chim is his triumphant homecoming.
With Long Chim, he’s going for something slightly more sustainable & accessible. This is supposed to be great Thai food that’s thoroughly reasonably priced, and doesn’t have a six-month wait for bookings. And we can happily report that it absolutely delivers on that promise.
It’s located on Rupert Street in Soho, on the ground floor of Horvada. Inside, it’s a full-on visual trip, something like a collision of a Bangkok night strip and a high-end spot in the city’s bougier districts. Neon signs, jaguars, Thai gods, and portraits of King Bhumibol and Queen Sirikit are scattered throughout, giving it that mix of reverence and irreverence that’s very Bangkok. Music-wise, it swings between experimental techno and modern psychedelic rock, setting the mood as the place fills up later in the evening.
The menu is compact but well-considered. Supported by other expert Thai chefs like his Sous Bertie Procter, Thompson wows with dishes loaded with the intense, balanced flavours. Highlights include beef skewers, sweet pork, and monkfish — each dish layered with seasoning that lingers. The Long Chim rolls, perhaps unexpectedly, are skinny deep-fried vegetable rolls with a sweet sauce—an addictive little snack. For vegetarians, options are limited for now, mostly salads, though they’re apparently working on expanding the offerings. And the spice levels are very much not toned down, so word of warning.
To wash all this down, the cocktails are delicious. Their twist on the Negroni, for instance, swaps the classic bitterness for a more mellow, fruity profile with pomegranate syrup—just the thing to ease you into the spicy hits of the menu.
In short, Long Chim is lovely, and long may it last.
NOTE: Long Chim is open now, and exists in a quantum state of both being a pop up (with a lease until early 2025) and also hoping to go permanent. If you want to find out more, and snap up a booking, just pop over to the Long Chim website.
Horvada | 36-40 Rupert St, London W1D 6DW
Want to know what’s coming up? Take a peep at the new openings coming soon…