Features

Hattie Lloyd 31/01/22


The Best Italian Restaurants in London

The Italians have given London a lot over the years: its name, a bridge over the Thames AND its first proper plumbing…

Before then, it was just a pipe dream.

Fortunately a little of their culinary nous has rubbed off too, because London’s now home to a trove of authentic trattorias, Michelin-starred restaurants and casual Italian eateries.

So raise a glass to our ancestors and stop by one of their descendants’ best spots (aka London’s best Italian restaurants) for a bite…

Campania | Hackney

Campania

An artfully dilapidated Southern Italian restaurant housed in a former dairy. Amidst worn wooden furnishings and abundant foliage, with an authentic nonna rolling out the pasta in the back kitchen, you can dine on exemplary cacio e pepe, pan-fried fish, and meatballs as big as your fist. In the summer, tables spill out onto the patio outside; perfect for a restorative glass of wine after walking down the Columbia Road flower market.

Details: 23 Ezra Street, E2 7RH Book table

Manteca | Shoreditch

manteca east london restaurant

Nose-to-tail dining is easy to get behind, and at Manteca it’s been given one heck of an Italian twist. Whole ducks are brought in, dry-aged and then star in a duck liver parfait with black date jam & black truffle (the latter for an extra fiver, doo it) and hand-rolled fazzoletti (the handkerchief pasta) featuring duck ragu and duck fat pangrattato. Meanwhile pigs are butchered into a cold roast porchetta tonnato with tuna sauce, and a slow-cooked pork blade with three-cornered leeks – plus boards of fennel pollen salami, coppa and pancetta sliced in their in-house salumeria. Then there’s clam flatbreads from their wood-fired oven, and the Cornish squid dressed in a green pepper salsa (which has the wings, the hoods, the throats, the tentacles, the lot) also from the wood-fired oven. It’s all good, from top to bottom…

Details: 49-51 Curtain Road, EC2A 3PT | Book a table

Lina Stores | Soho, King’s Cross, The CityClapham

Lina Stores

75 years after opening their legendary Italian deli in Soho, the folks behind Lina Stores decided to try their hand at an Italian restaurant. You’ll find it a stones throw away from the original shop – a sweet, little vienetta-coloured space, where the best seats in the house are at their 12-seater dining counter overlooking the kitchen. Food wise it’s a mix of traditional Italian antipasti – things like Polpette di Melanzane –  followed by fresh, house-made pasta. Which, as it happens, they conveniently serve in half portions (some for just £6) allowing you to comfortably feast on more than just one.

Details: 51 Greek Street, Soho, W1D 4EH | Book table

Trullo | Highbury

Trullo

Housed in Highbury, this trattoria-styled diner offers a British take on Italian tuck. Tim Siadatan, formally on the pans at St John and Moro, provides a seasonal menu that changes frequently (sometimes twice daily) with a focus on hand-made pasta and charcoal-grilled meats. The net curtain halfway up the windows, the white tablecloths and the wood furnishings combine to give the place an authentic Italian flavour… which you’ll also find on your plate, in the form of chargrilled quail with aioli; pappardelle with chicken liver, sage and marsala; and Amalfi lemon tart. Add to that a stonking great wine list, and Trullo is a consistently high performer. 

Details300-302 St. Pauls Road, Highbury East, N1 2LHBook table

Gloria | Shoreditch

Gloria

Gloria sits in the heart of Shoreditch, so you’re probably imagining exposed brickwork, chalkboard menus and handlebar moustaches as far as the eye can see. Gloria couldn’t be further from it. A sea of bright, clashing textures, colours, and chintz, the bombastic Gloria brings a refreshingly different aesthetic to Great Eastern Street. The first London venture from Paris’ Big Mamma Group (also behind Circolo Popolare and Ave Mario), everything here is dialled up to 11. You’ll find “London’s longest grissini” breadsticks, 10 layer-deep lasagnes, profiteroles the size of shot-puts, and cocktails containing porcini mushroom wine and truffle foam. This is 20th century Italy remixed, reworked, and reconstructed, delivering something for all the senses. 

Details: 54-56 Great Eastern St, EC2A 3QR | Book table

Bocca Di Lupo | Soho

Bocca di Lupo - best Italian restaurants

It’s a stylish regional Italian restaurant, courtesy of Jacob Kenedy (previously at much-loved Moro). Food wise, the focus is authentic, regional cooking, which you can either enjoy together as a table or individually thanks to most being offered in both small and large portion sizes. They also boast a BYO truffle menu, where the chefs will clean and slice your truffles before serving them to you in one of three select dishes.

Details: 12 Archer Street, Soho, W1D 7BB | Book table

Sorella | Clapham

Sorella- best Italian restaurants

The Amalfi Coast comes to Clapham: that’s the headline at Sorella, owned by Robin and Sarah Gill of The Dairy fame. Housed in the same space as their former hit restaurant The Manor, the place oozes with the rustic style of Southwest Italy. Simple furnishings and exposed brick are the backdrop to homely, Southern Italian-leaning plates that recently won the place a Michelin Bib Gourmand. As far as Italian restaurants go, the deserts offer a twist you’re unlikely to encounter elsewhere, including Malted Barley Affogato & Vodka Milk – as well as digestifs like the “Cello, is it mint you’re looking for”. 

Details: 148 Clapham Manor Street, SW4 6BX | Book table

The River Café | Hammersmith

The River Cafe

The River Café attempts to offer a full tour of Europe’s boot, from zipper to heel. Over a quarter of a century of operation, an impressive level of prestige has been cultivated here, including Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and the founders of Soho’s Randall & Aubin. All of this excellence comes at a price – which you’ll be paying – but having earned and kept a Michelin star since 1997, you know you’ll be enjoying Italian cooking at the top of its game. With the Thames lapping against its shores, the restaurant has a few fish based signatures that are well worth a try; including wood roasted turbot and John Dory smoked in their own wood stove. The wine list offers something from every region and would require a guidebook to get through. By the time you get to the heel… you’ll be legless.

Details: Thames Wharf, Rainville Road, London W6 9HA Book table

Padella | London Bridge and Shoreditch

padella best italian london

The little sister of Trullo, this fresh, house-made pasta joint seems to have been trending since the day it opened. So much so in fact they recently cut the ribbon to an even bigger site in Shoreditch, and yet still you’re unlikely to escape without queuing. It’s definitely worth it though – plates of fettuccine with Cobble Lane cured Nduja, marscarpone and lemon; pappardelle with 8 hour beef shin ragu; and a textbook tagliarini finished with pangrattato. The latter even falling under a tenner. So if you’re happy to wait this really is the best way to enjoy primo pasta on a budget.

Details: Padella London Bridge: 6 Southwark Street, SE1 1TQ; Padella Shoreditch: 1 Phipp Street, Hackney, EC2A 4PS | No reservations: if you’d like to go, just turn up – and be prepared for completely insane queues.

Bancone | Covent Garden & Soho

Bancone

Image credit: Milly Fletcher

Another fresh pasta spot to add to London’s growing embarrassment of riches, Bancone’s won a legion of loyal fans and a Bib Gourmand. The pasta’s made daily, in-house, and is padded out with moreish antipasti, classic Italian desserts and house wines starting at £4.50 a glass. Plus, it’s right where you need it, hidden in plain sight in London’s most touristy area.

Details: Bancone Covent Garden: 39 William IV Street, WC2N 4DD; Bancone Soho: 8-10 Lower James Street, W1F 9EL | Book here

Berto | Highbury & Islington

From the experimental pizza-making peeps over at next-door Zia Lucia (you can get black charcoal bases, gluten-free, wholemeal, etc.) this sibling is taking their carb prowess in a new direction: pasta. It’s made fresh every day by a team who’ve been trained up by Berto himself, a 25yr veteran of fresh pasta making in Rome. Here, you can get tagliatelle with slow-cooked beef ragu; gnocchi with ‘nduja and melted stracciatella; and a classic cacio e pepe with long tonnarelli pasta.

Details: 155 Holloway Rd, N7 8LX | Book here

Legare | Tower Bridge

Legare

A tiny little pastel-hued enclave tucked at the bottom of a Victorian spice warehouse. Legare is the product of a Barrafina General Manager and a Trullo sous-chef, and it shows – with fresh pasta made daily on site, a rapidly shifting menu of seasonal Italian dishes, and a superb Italian wine list to wash it all down.

Details: Cardamom Building, 31G Shad Thames, SE1 2YB Book here

Murano | Mayfair

Murano

“If you want to learn Italian cooking, go work for a Scot” said nobody, ever – until of course Angela Hartnett opened Murano, won a Michelin star, and showed that her time with Gordon Ramsay had allowed her to unlock the secrets to Mediterranean cuisine (she also does, in fact, have Italian heritage, but if we’d told you that the set up wouldn’t have been as good). The set up at Murano on the other hand needs no tweaking to impress. It’s classic dining, in the heart of Mayfair, so the tablecloths are white, the service is silver and the food, exquisite. The devil here is in the detail. It’s a requirement that nearly all oils, vinegars, and sherries be made in house, from scratch; and all those homemade staples are expertly combined to deliver dishes such as broad bean and rosemary arancini; rabbit leg with Pecorino; smoked pork belly; and apricot soufflé. This is Italian for those living la dolce vita.

NOTE: For a more down to earth, but equally delicious version of Murano you could head over to one of two Café Muranos (Cafe Murano St. James and Cafe Murano Covent Garden), where the vibe is more banquette than banquet and the decor is relaxed, modern, and centred around countertop dining.

Details: 20 Queen Street Mayfair London W1J 5PPBook here

Mele e Pere | Soho

Mele e pere

Three is a good combo in Italy: three colours in the flag, three flavours in Neapolitan ice cream, and three ingredients in a negroni. So when three Italian brothers set out to create a neighbourhood Italian restaurant in Soho, they were onto a good thing. Independent and self-reliant, they make many of their products on-site daily, including bread, ice cream, pasta, and even their vermouth. That vermouth joins London’s largest collection of the stuff behind the bar, alongside an exclusively Italian wine list, and numerous sharing platters and light bites on offer. But for a full meal you can expect total trattoria indulgence, in the form of carbonara arancini, lobster gratin, squid ink spaghetti, steak Fiorentina, and plenty of homemade gelato. It’s simple, rustic, and utterly authentic.

Details: 46 Brewer Street, Soho, London, W1F 9TF | Book here

Polpo | Soho and Chelsea

Polpo, Italian restaurants in London

A London institution for a reason. Russell Norman’s take on the classic Venetian bacaro has been winning fans since 2009, thanks to its trademark mix of rustic-industrial interiors, mouthwatering Italian ‘tapas’ dishes, and secret Campari bars. Slide into a red leather booth or take a stool up at the bar, and order up a feast of cacio e pepe, moreish polpette and crisp miniature pizzette topped with spinach and a perfectly runny egg.

Details: Polpo Soho, 41 Beak Street, Soho, Central London, W1F 9SB | Polpo Chelsea, 81 Duke of York Square, London SW3 4LYBook here

Popolo | Shoreditch

Popolo

Popolo, besides being a bit of a tongue twister if you say it after Polpo above, is a Michelin Bib Gourmand-toting restaurant specialising in Italian small plates that are best suited for sharing with friends – which is basically the green light to go ahead and order the entire menu. Something you’ll want to do anyway (perched on one of the 16 kitchen-facing counter seats), as there’s pork cheek and porcini butter agnolotti, large diver scallops topped with n’duja, red wine and chestnut risotto and burnt-honey panna cotta, among others, to get through. In all honesty, it’s perfectly acceptable (and encouraged) to do this by yourself too…

Details: 26 Rivington Street, EC2A 3DU | Book a table

Trattoria Brutto | Farringdon

And where do you go after opening one of the most popular restaurant mini-empires in the city? You open an ‘ugly but good’ restaurant in Farringdon, serving hefty portions of Florentine dishes like T-bone steak and pappardelle with rabbit ragu alongside half-litre jugs of house wine in an old-school, chequered tablecloth-toting eatery.

Details: 36-37 Greenhill Rents, Cowcross St, EC1M 6BN Book here

Artusi | Peckham

Artusi best Italian restaurants

Artusi is a Peckham neighbourhood joint with an Italian core. Sourcing as many of its ingredients as possible locally, it then whips them up into hearty Italian dishes. The furnishings are simple, the walls are white, a chalkboard tells you what you can eat, and the food does the talking. And as Italian is a romance language, you’re highly likely to fall in love with what’s on your plate. The seasonal, flexible menu ranges from cuttlefish ragù to cucumber and apple tonic sorbet, with plenty of pasta, pork, and cheese in between. 

Details161 Bellenden Road, London, SE15 4DH | Book here

 

Forza Win | Camberwell

Best Italian Restaurants: Forza Win

Praise be! Peckham’s much-loved Italian restaurant has returned from its COVID disappearance and been resurrected in the streets of Camberwell. Mastering the art of simplicity, Forza Win perfects straight-up, no fuss Italian food with a traditional five course menu. We’re talking silky tagliatelle with chicken stock, egg yolk and lemon (primi), aubergine parmigiana that melts in your mouth (secondi)… and there’s also a ton of wine to see you through the night.

Details: 31 Camberwell Church Street, SE5 8TR | Book a table

Forza Wine | Peckham

Forza Wine opening soon

The secret to following up one of London’s best Italian restaurants? Well, the Forza Win folk have added a huge 60-cover rooftop terrace, food ranging from grilled flatbreads with sausage & onion ragu to bowls of clams with white verdicchio wine & butter, loads of Italian wine and classic Italian cocktails, an ice cream machine (turning out soft-serve flavours like stem ginger & honeycomb or dulce de leche & candied pecans) annnnd, last but not least, an ‘e’ on the end of the name. It’s still a win though…

Details: 5th Floor, The Market, 133 Rye Lane, SE15 4ST | Book here

Marcella | Deptford

Marcella is the sister to Artusi and, sticking with family tradition, focuses firmly on simplicity. The dining room is pared back, pastel toned, with whitewashed walls and the obligatory chalkboard. The menu also makes for efficient reading with only 3 starters, 3 pastas, 3 mains, and – wait for it – 3 desserts. But keeping the options tight means each dish can flourish, and with options including spaghetti with confit cod cheeks; fried artichoke with aioli; and veal with fennel and orange, Marcella turns Deptford into a doorway to the Apennine peninsula. 

Details165A Deptford High Street, SE8 3NU | Book here

Maremma | Brixton

Maremma best Italian restaurants London

Maremma is Brixton’s take on Tuscan tuck. Named after an unspoilt stretch of Tuscany known for its top-notch nosh, Maremma looks to recreate the flavoursome and rustic cuisine of Northern Italy. The region is a hunting mecca, and you won’t have to hunt hard here to uncover numerous game and seafood dishes, cooked lightly to bring out the natural flavours complimented by potatoes, cheese, and beans. It’s simple and sumptuous, a feel that has been extended to the decor, which like most places these days, is stripped back and casual. The wine list contains a number of rare finds, many of which have never been showcased in the UK before, so you really can take your tastebuds on a little Tuscan holiday. 

Details: 36 Brixton Water Lane, SW2 1PE | Book here

 

Main image: Padella Shoreditch


Like Italian food? Then you’ll be needing somewhere for a little Italian dancing, too…

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